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Wedding Belles & Beaux > Wedding Dresses
Wedding Dresses
White vs. Not White |
Typical Dresses |
Changing
20th Century Silhouettes
The bride wore a gown of white bride's satin,
simply made and draped at the front, where the drapery was held with a rhinestone
ornament, and the ends of the drapery falling below the bottom of the skirt, lined
with pale flesh color. A deep V in the front of the bodice, reaching to the waist,
was filled in with Venetian rose point lace over pale flesh, making a round
neckline.
Description of Rosa-Maye Kendrick's Wedding Dress,
Unidentified Washington Newspaper, 1927
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In the late 18th Century, the introduction of machine-made
fabrics and relatively inexpensive Indian muslin made white wedding dresses more
affordable. Even so, they didn't become the standard until the late 19th
Century.
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| White vs. Not White |
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Until the late 1800s, most brides wore dresses in a variety of
colors other than white. During the American Revolution, for example, some
brides donned red gowns to show their patriotism; during and after the Civil
War, many chose to wear purple in remembrance of the honored dead; during the
late Victorian era, brown, gray and blue were popular colors for wedding
dresses. When preacher’s daughter Ida Josephine Peeler married up-and-coming
Texas cattleman Charles Wulfjen in 1869, she chose to wear a dark-colored dress
in a fashionable style. Her daughter Eula made the same choice when she married
John Kendrick.
Contrary to popular legend, white was not chosen as a favorite
color for weddings because it represented virginity (all brides were assumed to
be virginal). Instead, white was symbolic of:
Wealth
- Very few women could afford to wear a dress only once or twice, so most chose
dresses that could be used for future events. A bride with a white dress could
easily be identified as coming from a well-to-do family.
Youth
- As far back as the ancient Greeks, white was the color of youth; thus older
brides – virginal or otherwise – were discouraged from wearing it.
Change in Status
- Like baptisms, christenings, communions, debuts and graduations – all events
in which white was traditionally worn – a wedding was a major life event, one
in which the wearer’s status was dramatically changed.
Although
it existed long before her 1840 marriage to Prince Albert of Saxe-Coburg,
England's Queen Victoria is often given credit for popularizing the white
wedding dress.
It wasn't every day that a reigning monarch married, so
twenty-one year old Alexandrina Victoria's dress had to be impressive - and it
was! It took two hundred seamstresses eight months to create the white silk
gown, which included an 18-foot train and a white lace veil trimmed with orange
blossoms. It was dripping with handmade Honiton lace made in Devonshire. After
it was pictured and described in the popular press, the gown set the standard
for wedding elegance for nearly 170 years.
Like other thrifty brides, Queen Victoria fully expected to wear
this dress again. Indeed, she removed the lace overskirt and wore it several
times after the wedding, decorating it with a royal sash.
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| Typical Dresses |
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 The
white "leg-o-mutton"-sleeved wedding dress worn by Virginia resident Lucy Booth
at her wedding to Hugh Smith Cumming in 1896 is typical of the elaborate
Victorian era wedding dress. The local newspaper described Lucy as follows:
The bride wore a gown of brocaded oriental satin, en train, her veil caught with
pearl ornaments, and carried in her hand only a prayer-book bound in white.
Never did a handsomer, more queenly woman pass down the historic stairway of
“Carter’s Grove.” [She] is a strikingly handsome brunette, not only a favorite
in her own community, but well known in the society circles of Richmond,
Norfolk, and other cities, North and South.
 While radically different, the
rust-colored traveling suit worn by Sheridan resident Annie Maye Loucks at her
1889 wedding to Cameron Garbutt is also a typical Victorian era wedding dress.
It is very similar in style to the traveling suit worn by Eula Kendrick in
Greeley, Colorado, two years later. In the Wild West, such a suit was more
practical than white silk. Like Annie, Eula was married in the winter and left
on her honeymoon right after the wedding, leaving little time to change from a
fancy gown into an appropriate traveling outfit:
A brilliant wedding occurred at the Methodist Episcopal church in this city
yesterday afternoon. … The bride was arrayed in a traveling costume of mauve
Henrietta and velvet, trimmed with silver otter fur and hat and gloves of the
same. With diamonds sparkling from throat and ears she was a perfect picture of
loveliness and grace. From the time of her social debut [Eula’s] acknowledged
charm of person and manner … won for her the proud social distinction of leader
and favorite among the young society people of Greeley.

Kendrick-Wulfjen-Cumming Family Brides
When Eula
Kendrick’s older sister, Mattie Wulfjen, married engineer Francis Williams in Greeley, Colorado
in 1899, she dressed in the height of fashion in a long-sleeved white dress with
high collar, veil and train. In turn, Mattie’s daughter, Eula
Severn Williams, wore a very stylish gown when she married Diana Kendrick’s cousin, Army
officer Samuel Calvin Cumming, in Washington in 1923.
Rosa-Maye's 1927 dress was exceptionally fashionable, and Diana Cumming maintained the family’s tradition of stylishness with her
“strikingly effective costume” in 1929:
Fashioned of ivory white satin, the bodice is made with a “V” neckline and long
fitted sleeves which go into points over the wrists, and the skirt is long and
full with graceful circular fullness at the sides that extend several inches
below the hemline proper. The gown is devoid of trimming and a court train of
rare old Brussels lace, which belonged to the bride’s mother, falls over a satin
foundation from the shoulders. The tulle veil will be arranged softly about her
face and held by tiny clusters of orange blossoms. … Her bouquet will be a
shower effect of gardenias and lilies of the valley.
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